As I ticked off my last langos at the piac I saw a young-ish woman in a lovely green dirndle. It was so simple and functional that I assumed it was regular street wear. It wasn't until later, after I turned in my key at the gym after my last workout, that I realized that the dirndle might be a costume. I saw a teenage boy waiting at a bus stop, he was wearing a traditional black suit with a feathered hat. And, he was playing with his phone. It was a wonderful incongruity. I saw this as I rode my bike past the Franz Liszt School of Music, where I hear an orchestra rehearsing. It all fell into place; the costumes, the platforms spot hat suddenly appeared on the walking street, and other signs of construction in Centrum. Thousands of people will soon converge on Baja from all over the world to compete. Not everyone is excited about it. Some long time residents stay away from Centrum for a while. Others are excited and regret that I can't stay to enjoy the event. Some year I would like to witness it. It must be grand!
This was a poignant week. I felt tearful several times. My sister in law and I went on our last bike ride, to the national park. We discovered that the trails run for miles. I plan on another adventure there when I return! We saw cousins in neighboring Fajst, we visited neighbors for the last time, and other neighbors visited us. Several brought gifts. (Writing "Thank you" notes in Hungarian is an adventure. I threw away as many as I wrote. You can't write "neigh" when you mean "néni"!) I got my eyebrows painted for the last time. I think this is a very sensible cosmetic procedure. In my niece's words, we just wake up looking this beautiful! We don't have to put on a new face each day and wash it off each night. At my last pedicure the technician gave me the cute little snail-shaped toe separator. It is pink and adorable with little antenna! I ate a cinnamon roll called Cocoa Snail. Snails are big here. Literally, see the picture!
Last night as I listened to the frogs through my open window I thought of how difficult the trip has been. I've spent 12 weeks immersed in one of the wickedest languages for an English speaker. I've gone from understanding about 1% of conversations to understanding 10-15%. My family always understand me, and my communication grew in vocabulary and complexity. Maybe I now speak like a 3-year old. Or not. My 3-year old cousin understands conversations better than I do. And my 7-year old cousin tutors me. Friends and family happily congratulate me and tell me I speak beautifully. But I think that is love talking (thank you!) because I still have a hard time hearing l, r, t, ö, ü, and ij. Well, maybe it's progress that I kind of know what I don't know!
Now I am in Budapest. I stay with cousins till Tuesday morning, when I am off to Paris. I hope to get a makeup makeover, and get my hair trimmed. I am embarrassed to say that it was so hot in Baja that I took scissors to my already short hair, and snipped off about an inch. I got the hair off my neck because the heat and humidity was stifling me. All the cute, whispy, fringes my stylist created looked like I was just pulled dripping wet from a lake. Not a good look. So, now it's more like a bob cut. I hope a stylist in Paris can shape up a bit so it looks more intentional.
I have a second round of "Goodbyes" this week, and a new "Hello!" Next stop, Charles de Gaulle Airport!
Stork family in their nest at the gym. I saw two storks fly over the house this week, and another one hunting in a field. I love them, they are so graceful.
Global Fitness. I bought the T-shirt. It's pink.
Global Fitness has all the equipment you need.
And, a room for classes. Take Andi's aerobics or Pilats classes. Guaranteed to kick your you-know-what (in a good way!)
Now why did my sister in law insist I take a different picture?
Ok, here is a better picture.
Cocoa Snail. Better than escargot.
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