(Em)bracing Baja

While I tally up my list of "lasts," Baja counts down to its famous Bajai Halászlé Festival. Halászlé  is a savory fish soup made with a specific species of mirrored carp, and paprika. It simmers for hours in a big cauldron over an open flame. When a neighbor makes Halászlé the whole neighborhood smells delicious. Our family have a specific site set up on the property for butchering and cooking the fish. Work stops when the fish have to be but herd. My nephew came home from his job for a couple of hours to slaughter the fish one night on our last visit. It was a matter of course and his boss totally understood. The town braces itself for an influx of people that can temporarily double its population. 

As I ticked off my last langos at the piac I saw a young-ish woman in a lovely green dirndle. It was so simple and functional that I assumed it was regular street wear. It wasn't until later, after I turned in my key at the gym after my last workout, that I realized that the dirndle might be a costume. I saw a teenage boy waiting at a bus stop, he was wearing a traditional black suit with a feathered hat. And, he was playing with his phone. It was a wonderful incongruity. I saw this as I rode my bike past the Franz Liszt School of Music, where I hear an orchestra rehearsing. It all fell into place; the costumes, the platforms spot hat suddenly appeared on the walking street, and other signs of construction in Centrum. Thousands of people will soon converge on Baja from all over the world to compete. Not everyone is excited about it. Some long time residents stay away from Centrum for a while. Others are excited and regret that I can't stay to enjoy the event. Some year I would like to witness it. It must be grand!

This was a poignant week. I felt tearful several times. My sister in law and I went on our last bike ride, to the national park. We discovered that the trails run for miles. I plan on another adventure there when I return! We saw cousins in neighboring Fajst, we visited neighbors for the last time, and other neighbors visited us. Several brought gifts. (Writing "Thank you" notes in Hungarian is an adventure. I threw away as many as I wrote. You can't write "neigh" when you mean "néni"!) I got my eyebrows painted for the last time. I think this is a very sensible cosmetic procedure. In my niece's words, we just wake up looking this beautiful! We don't have to put on a new face each day and wash it off each night. At my last pedicure the technician gave me the cute little snail-shaped toe separator. It is pink and adorable with little antenna! I ate a cinnamon roll called Cocoa Snail. Snails are big here. Literally, see the picture!

Last night as I listened to the frogs through my open window I thought of how difficult the trip has been. I've spent 12 weeks immersed in one of the wickedest languages for an English speaker. I've gone from understanding about 1% of conversations to understanding 10-15%. My family always understand me, and my communication grew in vocabulary and complexity. Maybe I now speak like a 3-year old. Or not. My 3-year old cousin understands conversations better than I do. And my 7-year old cousin tutors me. Friends and family happily congratulate me and tell me I speak beautifully. But I think that is love talking (thank you!) because I still have a hard time hearing l, r, t, ö, ü, and ij. Well, maybe it's progress that I kind of know what I don't know! 

Now I am in Budapest. I stay with cousins till Tuesday morning, when I am off to Paris. I hope to get a makeup makeover, and get my hair trimmed. I am embarrassed to say that it was so hot in Baja that I took scissors to my already short hair, and snipped off about an inch. I got the hair off my neck because the heat and humidity was stifling me. All the cute, whispy, fringes my stylist created looked like I was just pulled dripping wet from a lake. Not a good look. So, now it's more like a bob cut. I hope a stylist in Paris can shape up a bit so it looks more intentional. 

I have a second round of "Goodbyes" this week, and a new "Hello!" Next stop, Charles de Gaulle Airport!

Stork family in their nest at the gym. I saw two storks fly over the house this week, and another one hunting in a field. I love them, they are so graceful. 

Global Fitness. I bought the T-shirt. It's pink. 

Global Fitness has all the equipment you need. 

And, a room for classes. Take Andi's aerobics or Pilats classes. Guaranteed to kick your you-know-what (in a good way!)

Now why did my sister in law insist I take a different picture?

Ok, here is a better picture. 

Cocoa Snail. Better than escargot. 

Last templum in Baja

This is my last week in Baja.  Next week I head to Paris. So I am now counting down the last time I do things. For example, Friday was my last eyebrow tinting. Today was my last walk to church (templum). I put some pictures below. Church bells ring telling people church is starting now. The bells ring half an hour before the service and again 15 minutes before the service and finally a minute before the service. That tells people when to start walking to church. I usually head out at the 15 minute warning. The workmen finished laying bricks in the new sidewalk. Now when I walk home arm-in-arm with the neighbor néni we don't have to walk in the street!

Yesterday was my third to last fry bread at the piac. Wednesday will be my second to last, and Saturday will be the last. I could get langos at a shop on the Sugo canal, but that's not near as fun as going to the bazaar. The sights and sounds, smells of fresh flowers fruit and veggies, people of all descriptions, sellers calling out to passers by, baby chicks and ducklings peeping, kids eating ice cream, it is all rich and full of life.  I love the piac! 

I expect my last pedicure this week. And last visit with neighbors and friends. I hope we will to to Fiszt to see cousins. If we go we will take the bus. My husband told me what hard workers they are, and how picturesque was the town when he last saw it. The cousins came to the funeral, and we're very kind to me, inviting us to visit. I am looking forward to it!

I finished my mending, and will ask if there is anything else I can sew in these last few days. I haven't had many chores while my husband's sister is off work. She fees the animals and does the marketing. I do my laundry, clean the floors, help with the weeding and mowing. But she is a busy gal, taking care of dozens of things, and there's not much left for me to do. She will return to work a few days a week after I go home. She is basically retired now, just working a bit for extra pocket money. 

I think I understand a bit about how retirement and healthcare works here. I think that folks get a small pension when they retire. Everyone has basic health care and can go to the doctor whenever needed. There can be a long wait for major services. So people also pay privately for services that they need fast, or for specialties. For instance, I understand that many women get private pay services for gynecology and for delivering babies. Gals will save up money in order to pay. A doctor can have a career in a state hospital and a private practice at the same time. When a dog bit me I went to the hospital emergency room for treatment. I received treatment free of charge. Thankfully it was a minor injury. I don't know what it would be like if I needed stitches or surgery. Please, I don't want to find out! The pharmacies here are pretty cool. It's almost like going to see a nurse. You walk in to the shop, tell the white coat clad service personnel about your problem. Then he or she gets the medication you need. I was bitten by some kind of insect and my face swollen  up like a balloon overnight. I took a Benedryl in the middle of the night. The next morning we went to the pharmacy and the pharmacist gave me a stronger medication. It knocked me out! Note to self: take prescription antihistamine on my next trip. Benedryl is good, but my reactions are pretty strong and Benadryl only takes the edge off, I need something stronger. I hope that was my last allergic reaction in Baja!

What else is last? Today's lunch was the last meal together with my husband's sister and niece. We ate outside, it was sunny and breezy. I said grace, and started tearing up as I spoke. Afterward, Frank's sister hugged me, we both cried a bit. We agreed that it is sad that I only have one week left here. I will treasure every moment. Even the difficult ones wherein I can't make myself understood. Or when I don't understand someone else. That is most moments! Really, this language is wickedly difficult to learn! I know lots of words, but the endings are all twisty and turn-y. I recognize lots of root words, but with the multitude of suffixes I feel like the words all swim around in a big cauldron, swirling together and making no sense. I know that that is a piece of meat, that is a carrot, and that is pasta. But I don't know their relationship to each other so I don't know what kind of stew it is. I am positive that my niece told me that the gym is closed on Sundays. But yesterday she said, "no, it is open in the evening." Most of the time I just say, "ok," and follow along like a little duck after its mother. This will not be the last week of that! When I get to Paris I will follow my other niece around like a little duckling! The rest of the meals this week will be just me and my sister in law. She cooks like crazy and I look forward to her home fries. They are the best fries I have ever had. I think I already said that, but they are so swesomly crunchy on the outside and tender and buttery on the inside, that I have to say it again. I will be sad to eat my last meal of home fries!

Here are photos of my last walk to templum in Baja.